![]() I have a by-pass it's just feeding to a different location as to QED's advised location. Sorry Stu, I'm not sure what you think I'm missing. QED fitting instructions if they're of any use: ![]() If the original housing is there, with the 16mm blanked off I could consider using that for the bypass hose rather than where it currently attaches. I'll have to have another look to see if the original stat housing is there for whether a complete new bottom hose has been installed as I just can't remember/picture it at the moment. Not sure if that is better, worse or negligible but ultimately, it is the same end game. My setup bypasses the header tank and feeds the hose going to the bottom hose. I didn't install the QED top hose stat in my car, but according to QED's fitting instructions the bypass should feed the header tank, which then feeds the bottom hose. As the original thermostat housing would have been on the bottom/return hose, in theory this should be equivalent but I'm not convinced the flow efficiency is there in practice. It isn't fed into the header tank, it's fed into the outlet pipe from the header tank which then feeds into the bottom/return hose. Would it also help get some warm water into the radiator before the thermostat opens therefore reducing the chances of thermal shock to the block? What I'm not sure on is how fluid could be forced back through the overflow hose (and in the wrong direction) or am I misunderstanding? Unless your tank fills to the brim (which mine doesn't, quite!) then I can't see this happening.Įlie boone, within my diagram I've put together, from where to the top radiator bleed screw would you add another hose? I like the sound of it. The flow should in theory go with the existing current from the expansion tank into the bottom hose but if pressure builds it could just force fluid in both directions and force the air that was in the expansion tank somewhere else (such as the radiator)? On reflection I can see why the expansion tank fills up so dramatically the bypass hose feeds into the hose between the expansion tank and bottom hose. Once fan kicks on the temps drop back into 180's.P.mole1, it sounds like we have the same setup and the same issue (except for running too hot, my temps are steady). ![]() My Scan Guage 2 confirms the range you report with short periods of slightly higher temps during Summer in bumper to bumper traffic. ![]() Coolant level is stable, small amount of dried coolant from open end of hose. Normal temp range is 185-192, with the steady state cruising temp of 188 Fįast, thank you for your detailed reply. Basically the needle will not move between about 175 and 240 F. The Engine temp gauge has a large zone that does not accurately display the relative temp. If you want to but your mind to rest then I would recommend getting and OBD system monitor such as scan gauge so you can actually see the true temp of the coolant. The NC coolant system is designed differently and the radiator cap does not lift on a regular basis, hence no overflow tank.Īs long as the coolant level remains steady, no need to worry about it. On older model cars, most radiator caps vented to the non pressurized plastic overflow tank when hot and then would suck the coolant back into the radiator as it cooled. ![]() Some lift below or slightly above the designated range. There is a variance of actual lift pressure of each individual cap. This can occur if the coolant temp is above normal, evan for a very short period of time. The radiator cap is set to lift at 16 PSI. Is it normal for a small amount of crusty coolant to accumulate below the overflow tube on the coolant bottle? ![]()
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